Telegraph – Logan Square

While at dinner with friends someone mentioned that they never order chicken when they go out to eat. We all chimed in with similar reasoning about how it is boring, you can make it at home, why spend the money, etc. I agreed but the exception popped into my mind, Telegraph. While there last October I had a taste of their Grilled Amish Half Chicken dish. This dish made me want to break the “no ordering chicken in a restaurant” rule.

Before we get to that, Telegraph is a wine bar by the people behind Webster’s Wine bar. The chef is most recently from  avec and the food reflects this.  I can see why it is described as rustic with its vintage lighting and natural reclaimed wood. But I think it has more of the dark and romantic vibe. Perfect for a large communal meal (as you’ll see in the pictures below) but also perfect for a date tucked in a corner with some wine and snacks.

The wine descriptions are pretty entertaining, “a life-affirming, citrus & sea-spray driven, lightly sparkling dry white that makes the soul smile.”  It was a warm night and I love all things Spanish so I went with the 2000 Lopes de Heredia ‘Tondonia’ Rioja Alta and yes it did taste, “very alive & fine.”

The menu changes frequently so these may not be available currently but worth ordering if on the menu. First courses:

Roasted beets, baby romaine, bella rosa, honey vinaigrette, earl grey smoked bacon, evalon cheese

Caramelized seasonal mushrooms, pearl barley, vegetable demi, and poached egg. This was unexpectedly rich in flavor, hearty and could rival any meat dish. Poached egg was perfectly cooked as well.

Second courses:

Grilled hanger steak, potatoes o’brien, crawfish demi. A very solid dish that will not disappoint on flavor.

Braised rabbit pappardelle pasta, lavender, seasonal nut bolognaise, celery root puree. The flavor combination was entirely unique, I haven’t had lavender, nut bolognaise and celery root together before and I am here to tell you, it works. The rabbit was cooked well and had a nice flavor, not too gamey. I didn’t ask but I wouldn’t be surprised if the pasta was house made. I took my leftovers home. I would order this again.

On to the pièce de résistance, grilled Amish half chicken, delicata squash stuffing, tamarind, annatto seed, and cilantro. The chicken was grilled to perfection, juicy and flavorful. It beat the hanger steak in flavor. The annatto seed and cilantro give it a hint of Latin American flavor and the squash gives a rich dimension. The croutons are a thing of beauty; huge and soft with a nice mix of herbs and deliciously buttery. If this is on the menu during my next visit I will order it. You should too.

After all that food we were actually talked into dessert:

Vanilla Panna Cotta. Okay, I admit, it didn’t take that much convincing when presented with the chance to eat cream, sugar and milk. However, it was the perfect light end to a heavy meal.

Telegraph tends to be busy on the weekend so a make a reservation or be prepared to wait. Anyone looking for a good date place should come here.

Telegraph 2601 N Milwaukee Ave At Logan Blvd

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